Pollo alla Cacciatora, or “hunter’s chicken,” is a staple of central Italian home cooking, though its form varies widely from region to region—and even more so across the Atlantic. I grew up eating the Italian American version in New Jersey, where tomato sauce, mushrooms, peas, and more often made their way into the pot. But when I moved to Italy, I discovered that the Roman and southern styles lean more herby and acidic, relying on white wine and white wine vinegar instead of tomatoes to brighten the dish. My version takes inspiration from Stefano Callegari’s at Trapizzino, which, in turn, is influenced by his mother Luana's recipe. I skip the breasts and use only dark meat so everything stays tender and juicy. Plus, the dish only gets better after a night in the fridge. Season the chicken with salt at least a few hours and up to 12 hours before you intend to cook it.