If Roman cooking has a protein that flies under the radar, it would be veal breast. Cheap, fatty, and full of connective tissue, this underrated cut becomes luxurious when slow-roasted until the meat nearly collapses under its own weight. The name alla fornara, literally “baker’s style,” hints at the dish’s roots: In a city where few people historically had ovens at home, trays of food were entrusted to the neighborhood forno, which roasted them slowly in the residual heat from bread baking.

In the Roman tradition, petto di vitello alla fornara is seasoned simply, relying on time more than embellishment. It’s the kind of meal that tastes like Sunday lunch at Tavernaccia Da Bruno near Stazione Trastevere. I couldn’t resist sharing chef Giuseppe Ruzzettu’s process (images above), ideal for serving 50. Start the recipe below, adapted for a smaller crowd, 12 to 24 hours ahead.