I can’t eat one of these molten, deep-fried, white-bread sandwiches without thinking that Rome would give the Minnesota State Fair a run for its money. Mozzarella in Carrozza (literally “mozzarella in a carriage”) is what happens when you take slices of soft white bread, stuff them with cheese and anchovy, then dip the whole thing in batter or breadcrumbs (I prefer the crunch of the latter) before frying until crisp and golden. It’s Roman comfort food at its most indulgent, often served at rosticcerie and friggitorie as part of the city’s glorious fritti lineup. The dish has its roots in Campania, where it was devised as a way to use up stale bread and aging mozzarella, but Romans have fully claimed it as their own. It’s best eaten hot, when the mozzarella stretches with every bite and he crust still crunches audibly.