If fried artichokes are the famous stars of Rome’s Jewish kitchen, concia (fried zucchini soaked in a punchy, garlicky marinade) is its best-kept secret. Zucchini slices are fried until deeply golden, then hit with vinegar, garlic, and mint (or sometimes parsley), transforming humble summer squash into something addictive. It’s classic Roman-Jewish cooking: simple ingredients, smart technique, big flavor. Concia is best at room temperature, after it’s had time to marinate, and it shines with good bread or as part of a larger spread. In Rome, we use zucchine romanesche, the pale green, ridged kind, and we’re not shy about frying them until they’re browned beyond recognition. Grow your own or use conventional zucchini instead.