Rome may not be a seaside city, but that hasn’t stopped its residents from developing a serious taste for fried fish. Filetti di baccalà (plump fillets of imported salt cod dipped in a batter and fried until golden) are a cornerstone of the city’s fritti culture. These crisp, tender slabs originated in the Jewish Ghetto and have become a fixture at pizzerias. They’re especially popular on meatless Fridays and Christmas Eve, when religious observance calls for fish, not flesh. Salt cod’s appeal in Rome goes way back: It’s inexpensive, easy to store, and once properly soaked, it’s a blank canvas for flavor. The quintessential place to try one is at Dar Filettaro di Santa Barbara near Campo de’ Fiori, where the fillets are massive, slightly greasy (OK, disconcertingly greasy), and absolutely worth it for the full time-capsule experience transporting you back to the 1960s. Eat the cod hot, preferably standing on the cobblestones outside, with a cold beer in hand to wash it all down. Then, when you want a properly fried one without the excess grease, visit A Rota in Tor Pignattara or Trattoria da Cesare al Casaletto in the Gianicolense district.