You might think summer officially begins with the solstice in June, or when the mercury climbs above 85 °F. Wrong. In Rome, the appearance of insalata di riso (rice salad) on the menu of bars, cafeterias, and takeaway joints signals the official start of the season. This mixture of cold rice with a blend of flavorings typically starts popping up in mid-May. No two insalate are the same, but they do generally draw from the following ingredients: pickled vegetables, canned tuna in oil, cubes of Swiss cheese, canned corn, würstel coins (aka hot dog rounds), and overcooked hard-boiled eggs. Sometimes there’s mayo, which in Italy often comes in a tube. Calling it a “salad” is a stretch, but one I’m willing to make.