Almonds, Amaretti, and Ancient Recipes

You don’t have to know where Boccione is to find it—you follow the aroma of roasting almonds and fragrant cinnamon wafting from a storefront on Via del Portico d’Ottavia. There’s no sign, no detailed labels on the pastries, and no concern for your Instagram feed. Just decades of muscle memory and centuries-old recipes that developed in resistance to persecution.

Boccione, the Limentani family bakery in the heart of Rome’s Jewish Ghetto, is one of the city’s most quietly influential food landmarks. It’s easy to miss, tucked into a corner of the Ghetto steps from the ruins of the ancient Portico d’Ottavia. But for those in the know, it’s a pilgrimage site.

If you’re lucky and early, the window might hold full shelves of ricotta and sour cherry jam torta, its golden crust obscuring the two-tone filling within. The crust is barely sweet, the filling luxuriously tangy—made from fresh sheep’s milk ricotta and visciole, sour cherries. This pie is soft, not set. Don’t expect a neat slice.

By midmorning, the front L-shaped counter is down to trays of Pizza Ebraica ,ginetti, cinnamon-scented biscotti, and almond paste amaretti. The pizza ebraica (Jewish pizza) is a dense, charred bar studded with almonds, pine nuts, raisins, and candied fruit. It’s aromatic and held together by almond meal, flour, and oil. It’s not a pizza at all but rather a symbolic pastry born of layered traditions, both sweet and savory.

That’s the thing about Boccione’s baked goods: They carry centuries. When the Ghetto was established in 1555, Rome’s Jewish community was forced to live within its walls. It wasn’t one monolithic group—there were Sephardic Jews who had fled Sicily and southern Italy during the Inquisition and Roman Jews whose ancestors had been here since antiquity. They spoke different languages, had different customs, and cooked different food. But the Ghetto forced them to share everything, especially space. Over time, distinct foodways fused. The result is this hybrid style of Roman Jewish baking that draws from Spanish, Sicilian, and Roman traditions: nuts and citrus, dried fruit and cinnamon, ricotta and almond paste.

The Limentani family has been the guardian of this synthesis for at least half a dozen generations. They haven’t changed much about the space, though the oven, hand built in Rome by the Castelli family, is modern. There’s still no menu, no place to eat your torta. That’s fine. Step back into the street, onto the worn cobblestones, suspend any attempt at modesty, and take your first bite. The crust will crumble, the cherries will stain your fingers, and as long as the slice lasts, you’ll taste the Ghetto’s sweet survival.

Almonds, Amaretti, and Ancient Recipes